Over the past year if there was one palette I reached for on a daily basis more than most it was the Jeffree Star Beauty Killer palette, it was a firm favourite throughout the year and I’ve hit pan on three of the shades. Almost 18 months on from getting it, it still managed to feature in my last favourites. I had my eye on the Androgyny palette since it released but wanted to wait out a good deal on it – I have enough eyeshadow to keep me going to not splurge on anything for full price or without a voucher code. Black Friday rolled around and I managed to snag it at 30% off and I couldn’t be happier with the new addition.
I absolutely adore the mattes in the Beauty Killer palette, even if I don’t use the shimmers I find myself cracking it open and reaching for the shades China White, Courtney and Vanity. The Beauty Killer palette is largely pretty outlandish when it comes to their shades, whilst wearable looks can be created from it. Androgyny whilst still full of colours feels a lot more wearable when you look over the shades. The tones are more muted with a range of finishes.
The palette design feels much more finished than the Beauty Killer palette, something about that palette felt a little unrefined style wise, but it’s clear as the brand has grown so has the design aspiration. The cardboard sleeve that this arrives in is a dark maroon with gold lettering. The palette slides out to reveal Jeffree’s trademark pink with a textured subtle snakeskin kind of print adorned with the gold lettering also carrying through. Whilst this feels better, it’s not as friendly to just wipe down as the glossy patent feel that the other one has. There’s swings and roundabouts to both. But the size of the palette, size of the pans inside etc is identical to the first.
The palette whilst cardboard is sturdy, it’s large for a 12 colour palette, but you get a lot on pan for your money, these pans are huge. Flipping the top of the lid reveals the mirror is designed with a antique style mirror frame adorning the edges.
Just like the first, and all of his highlighters – the pressed powders are debossed with the Jeffree Star logo into them. When I place my brushes into these pans I always find myself dipping into the top left hand corner until I hit pan before working outwards – that star detail is so nice I don’t wish to ruin it until I absolutely have to.
Like I already said this palette is a really nice mix of tones, more coloured but wearable compared to the original. This palette pairs really well with the Beauty Killer palette and I’ve found myself often cracking them both out layering one over the others mirror to create a big grid of 20 shades. If you already have and love the OG palette, then this will go really nicely alongside it whilst there isn’t any cross over between the two.
Androgyny Palette Swatches
Frosting – A stunning pale gold in a very metallic finish, for me this is best used wet with fix plus and packed on for pigment, but it also looks pretty when used softly in the outer corner.
Safe Word – This palettes transition colour, much cooler than Courtney in the Jeffree Star one and is a welcome addition to the line up. I do find this one is prone to a little bit of skipping through the crease and needs a little bit of work compared to the rest.
Charm – A gorgeous mustard orange that’s completely matte in finish. The more you blend this out the more brown pigment comes out in this, but it’s easily layered and packed on to get this to stay in that unusual yellow orange spectrum
Deja Vu – Described as a metallic brown online, personally I think that does it an injustice. This is a gorgeous bronze brown that works well packed all over the lid.
Dominatrix – Matte warm chocolate brown, this shade is gorgeous on the outer crease.
Androgyny – I really like using this dusky mauve colour in a couple of different ways. Firstly it looks lovely under the lash line, secondly I really like mixing it with Safe Word to give a different coloured hue in the socket. Great by itself, but also great for giving other colours a different vibe, it’s muted enough to work with other tones well. Depending on what colours this is paired against it can look more brown or more purple, it doesn’t tend to lean as purple on my skin tone as it looks in the pan.
Fetish – This isn’t as metallic as Frosting or Deja Vu, but this shade isn’t as matte as it first appears in the pan. This is a gorgeous blood red shade that has this soft red pearl sheen. This works really well with Dominatrix to give a cherry brown hue, as well as paired with Confession in the Beauty Killer palette.
Military – Used sparingly this can be passed off as brown and it really has to be packed on heavily to notice that gorgeous matte khaki green finish. In some ways that’s great as it means that you can do more than one thing with this shade, but when you want to do a soft, subtle khaki crease it’s difficult (but not impossible) to work with for that reason.
Poison – A medium matte teal shade with good pigmentation, on the eye as you blend this it becomes way more charcoal and appearance and pays off a lot darker.
Swallow – More of a true dark blue with a matte finish. I prefer this colour over Poison, but I find out of the two formulas that this one is more prone to skipping a little bit. It doesn’t translate to looking as bright on the eye as what you’d expect from the pan.
Androgyny Palette Eye Looks
Look 1 // Bronze it Up
Shades Used: Safe Word, Dominatrix, Frosting & Deja Vu
This look was pretty easy – I blended Safe Word all through the crease, then used dominatrix on the outer corner to around midway across the crease before dragging down under the lower lashline to around the middle of the eye. I then used frosting all over the inner corner, meeting the brown underneath the lashes with a soft fluffy brush blending out slightly, I then wet my brush with fix plus and went in with frosting again to build up a brighter, foilier gold pigment on lid stopping half way across the eye. I then blended Deja Vu from the middle of the lid towards the outer corner, stopping as I reached where Dominatrix had been placed. I then went back over with Dominatrix lightly and blended the edges very softly between to create a softer cut crease look – I went somewhere between fully blended and that ultra precise cut crease that I don’t love for being in the office. Finishing with a simple winged liner & a coat of mascara.
Look 2 // Smoked Gold
Shades Used: Safe Word, Dominatrix, Androgyny & Frosting
First off Safe Word is ran through the crease just like before, then I blended Androgyny all over the lid up to the crease, blending and packing on pigment. I then used Too Faced’s Glitter Glue to pat over the centre of the lid to create a sticky clear base – I then went in with Frosting and placed just on the centre of the lid, then going back over with Androgyny to blend the two together for a subtle purple and gold halo lid. I finished with a very light dusting of Dominatrix in the outer corner crease to deepen up slightly but not obviously so. I finished with a thick dose of Maybelline Gel Liner. I’d planned to go really smoky under the lashes with the purple – but I was running late for work and hand to abandon ship! I like this look, there feels something a little bit Arabian with the tones and the shape of the eye shadow. In retrospect I ended up going a bit too high with the colour and should have softened the edges a bit more, but I don’t hate the look!
Look 3 // Gunmetal Gold
Shades Used // Safe Word, Dominatrix, Frosting, Poison
This look is my least favourite from the four I’ve included, all my favourite brushes had been washed so was working with my backups and it’s evident what a difference this made to blending (note to self, buy back ups of favourite brushes).
Safe Word through the crease, bought up a little higher than usual, I was going for a heavier, smokier look. I then placed a little bit of Dominatrix through the outer crease but very lightly. I then placed Poison over the outer socket part of the lid and blended into the crease slightly, however I realised that the shade paid off a lot more grey than I expected so I stopped going so heavy, I then placed frosting on the inner corner and blended over Poison. I then went back in with a little bit of more of safeword through where the rease was to soften the look slightly and a bit more Dominatrix in the outer corner to not make the look too cool toned. I hate how this looks lid down / blinked but it didn’t look too bad staring straight ahead.
Look 4 // Life on Mars
Shades Used // Safe Word, Charm Frosting, Androgyny & Fetish
Just like all the other looks I ran Safe Word through the crease first before layering with another layer of a mixture of Charm and Safeword to bring a bit of orange to the crease in a subtle way. I then packed Fetish all over the lid, stopping just before the inner corner. I then placed Frosting on the lid with a small detailer brush (whilst dry this time) and blended into/over the shade Fetish. I darkened up the corner with Androgyny whih was a more subtle option than picking Dominatrix, and added to the warmer red tone.
The only thing I’d change colour selection wise in this palette is only having either Poison or Swallow for my preferences I could get away with one or the other, whilst both are gorgeous shades I find they can be used pretty interchangeably. Whilst I feel like I get the balance of Matte to Metallic ratios for a ‘Androgyny’ palette seems right, but if I was picking one colour to replace it with it would likely be another shimmer, either in a lighter duskier lilac, similar tone to Androgyny – or potentially a grey-blue.
My one comment is that a lot of the mattes on the bottom row pay off differently on the eye than I expected from the pans. That’s not a problem as I know how to make them work now I’ve used each shade a couple of times but they do all pay off a bit darker and a bit more neutral than expected. The blues take on a greyer tone on the eye, and the green, red & purple take on a browner tone than how they appear in the pan.
I’ve already hit pan on the shade Frosting – I’ve used it a lot since I got this back at the start of December, especially over Christmas I was loving gold eye looks. My hope in future is that Jeffree starts releasing single pans, I’d love to build my own perfect palette for travel (and stock up on favourite shades when they run out in the two palettes I have!).
Yet again this is fast becoming another favourite palette in my collection, in my top 10 palettes – both Jeffree Star ones feature. It’s available to buy from Beauty Bay here, and if you’ve been debating it, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed.
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